This way, you knit your model from the neckline down and can check how it fits as you go.
With a sweater made of individual pieces, the front, back, and sleeves still need to be joined at the end. This takes time and care before you can wear your new favorite piece.
With seamless top-down knitting, this seaming is largely eliminated. The number of ends to weave in is also usually smaller. Especially practical: you can try on your knitting project while you're working on it and check the length and fit directly. To do this, you place the stitches on a sufficiently long needle cable or a provisional cord.
What models can you knit top-down?
A particularly common variation is raglan from the top, or RVO for short. Increases along four raglan lines ensure that your knitted piece widens from the neck, creating space for shoulders, torso, and sleeves.
Models with a round yoke can also be knitted from the top, for example with Fair Isle or stranded colorwork patterns. To show you the basic principle, we will focus here on a raglan sweater.
By the way, top-down doesn't just work for sweaters: sleeveless sweaters, shirts, tops, cardigans, and dresses can also be made this way. Sweaters are often knitted in the round, open cardigans in rows.
How does Top-Down work?
How does top-down work?
The following steps show you the basic process of knitting a top-down raglan sweater. The exact stitch counts, increases, and measurements can be found in your pattern. Knit a gauge swatch beforehand so that the intended size will fit later.
1. Start with the neckline
Cast on the number of stitches indicated in your pattern onto a circular needle. The neckline must be stretchy enough so that you can comfortably pull the sweater over your head.
In the variation described here, you join the stitches to knit in the round and first knit the neckband, for example in a rib pattern. Make sure the cast-on edge does not twist when joining.
2. Mark the raglan lines
Divide the stitches according to the pattern into front, back, and the two sleeves. Mark the four transitions with stitch markers or marking threads.
These points will later form the raglan lines between the body and the sleeves.
3. Increase for the raglan shaping
Work the increases at the marked points as instructed in your pattern. This will gradually widen the upper part of your sweater.
If the increases are worked as yarn overs and you do not want holes to form, knit them twisted in the following round. For decorative lace lines, the pattern may intentionally specify something different.
4. Continue knitting until sleeve separation
Continue working the increases until you reach the height and stitch count for the sleeve separation as specified in your pattern.
Trying it on will help you check if the yoke is long enough and provides enough ease of movement.
5. Place the sleeve stitches on hold
Place the stitches for both sleeves on waste yarn or appropriate stitch holders. Continue knitting the front and back sections.
Under the arms, cast on additional stitches according to the pattern to join the front and back sections into a round. The same number of stitches should be cast on both sides.
6. Finish knitting the body
Knit the body in rounds until the desired or specified length. Then work the bottom edge – for example, a rib pattern to match the neckline – and bind off the stitches.
7. Pick up the sleeve stitches
Pick up the held stitches of one sleeve back onto your needles. Pick up the required stitches from the cast-on stitches under the arm as instructed in the pattern.
Mark the beginning of the round centered under the arm.
8. Pay attention to the transitions
Small holes may appear at the transitions between the held and the newly picked-up stitches. There's no need to worry: you can close them when you weave in the ends.
Some patterns include additional picked-up stitches to avoid such gaps. Follow the instructions for your specific model.
9. Shape and finish the sleeve
For a narrower sleeve, work the planned decreases under the arm. When you start and at what intervals you decrease depends on your pattern – not necessarily only from the elbow.
Knit the sleeve to the desired length and finish it with the specified cuff.
10. Knit the second sleeve
Knit the second sleeve in the same way. It's best to note down the rounds and decreases for the first sleeve, especially if you adjusted the length. This way, both sides will be consistent.
11. Weave in the last ends
If necessary, close any small gaps under the arms and weave in all loose ends. Then wash your knitted item according to the yarn care instructions and let it dry flat in shape.
What patterns and yarns are suitable?
Whether it's strong green, subtle stripes, Fair Isle patterns, or plain stockinette stitch: you decide how your model should look.
You also have many options for materials. Cotton, virgin wool, or synthetic yarns are all suitable, as are appropriate blends. The key is that the yarn and gauge swatch match your pattern and the desired result.
Especially for your first top-down project, we recommend a finished pattern. This way, you can familiarize yourself with the construction without having to calculate stitch distribution and increases yourself. Our models also include variations suitable for beginners.
